IKLAN 1
Floodwaters affect a home three ways:
Lower the Humidity
Everything will dry more quickly and clean more easily if you can reduce the humidity in the home. There are five ways to lower the humidity and stop the rot and mildew. But you’ll have to delay using some methods if you have no electricity. (Read Step 5 : Restore the Utilities before you attempt to restore the utilities.)
Drying your home could take several weeks. Until your home is reasonably dry, damage caused by mildew and decay will continue. The musty odor will remain forever if the home is not thoroughly dried out well.
Sort Contents and Discard Debris
You have three types of contents that should go to three different places:
Move these to a safe, dry place, such as the second story or outside. The longer they sit in water, the more damaged they become. In some cases, you may only be able to move them to one room while you clean the other rooms. Don’t leave wood furniture in the sun or it will warp when it dries. To save an area rug, lay a sheet or some other material on top so the colors will not bleed. Clean it promptly.
Things you don’t want to save
Put things you don’t want to save outside to dry until the adjuster comes to confirm your losses. Take pictures or videotapes and list each item for the record. If you are not sure whether to throw something out, decide whether it is worth salvaging by checking the information in Step 6 : Clean Up.
Garbage
Get rid of food and anything else that could spoil or go bad immediately. Don’t let garbage build up. Garbage piles will cause yet another health hazard by attracting animals and insects. If your insurance adjuster has not come, tell your agent or adjuster that you need to get rid of potential health hazards. That person will tell you how to make sure that your losses are covered. Then throw the stuff out, preferably in sealed plastic garbage bags.
Don’t take chances with frozen food if electricity went off unless food is still thoroughly frozen and contains ice crystals. As a rule, food will remain frozen for up to three days in a closed freezer without power. Don’t refreeze thawed food. However, you can cook and then freeze raw meat that was partially thawed and then refreeze it.
Dispose of discarded items properly. Do not burn or bury them. There will usually be more frequent garbage pickups after a flood. Your local TV and radio stations will have announcements concerning trash pickup schedules and drop-off sites.
Wood always has some water in it, but a flood can bring its moisture content up to 30 percent. This causes swelling. However, if allowed to dry naturally, wood will usually go back to its original shape. Unlike wallboard, wet studs and sills that are touched by floodwaters do not need to be thrown out. Hollow wood doors usually have cardboard spacers in the middle that lose their shape when wet. Generally, these doors come apart after they are flooded sand need to be replaced.
How Floodwaters Affect Your Home
Once contents and debris have been cleared, the next step is to get the water out of the ceilings and walls. How you drain and dry your ceilings and walls depends on what they are made of.
Drain the Ceilings and Walls
Flood soaked wallboard is usually removed and thrown away. Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but you still need to get air circulating in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills. Different approaches are used for different materials.
Dry the floor
Air needs to circulate around flooded floors so they can dry out. This means removing the floor covering. Because floodwaters contain mud and dirt, most soaked floor coverings should be thrown away. Keep a piece of all discarded floor covering so the adjuster can tell its value.
Air needs to circulate below the floor to dry it out. If the crawl space of your home is flooded, pump it out. Remove any plastic sheets, vapor barriers or insulation from underneath the floor. (Be sure to replace them when the floor and foundation are completely dry.)
If a home with a basement was flooded over the first floor, remove finished basement ceilings, or cut or drill holes between all the joists to allow circulation. Don’t cut or drill near electric lines or pipes. You have now reached the stage where no more damage should occur to your home. Exterior holes have been patched, the utilities have been turned off, and the drying process has started. It may take days or weeks, depending on the humidity, for all the wood to dry out. You can do Steps 5 : Restore the Utilities, 6 : Clean Up and 7 : Check on Financial Assistance while the home is drying. However, do not start Step 8 : Rebuild and Floodproof, Rebuild and Floodproof, until the home is completely dry.
- The water damages materials. Wallboard will disintegrate if it remains wet too long; wood can swell, warp, or rot; electrical parts can short out, malfunction, and cause fires or shock.
- Mud, silt, and unknown contaminants in the water not only get everything dirty; they also create a health hazard.
- Dampness promotes the growth of mildew, a mold or fungus that can grow on everything.
Lower the Humidity
Everything will dry more quickly and clean more easily if you can reduce the humidity in the home. There are five ways to lower the humidity and stop the rot and mildew. But you’ll have to delay using some methods if you have no electricity. (Read Step 5 : Restore the Utilities before you attempt to restore the utilities.)
- Open up the house. If the humidity outside is lower than indoors, and if the weather permits, open all the doors and windows to exchange the moist indoor air for drier outdoor air. Your body will tell if the humidity is lower outside. If you have a thermometer with a humidity gauge, you can monitor the indoor and outdoor humidity. On the other hand, when temperatures drop at night, an open home is warmer and will draw moisture indoors. At night and other times when the humidity is higher outdoors, close up the house.
- Open closet and cabinet doors. Remove drawers to allow air circulation. Drawers may stick because of swelling. Don’t try to force them. Speed drying by opening up the back of the cabinet to let the air circulate. You will probably be able to remove the drawers as the cabinet dries out.
- Use fans. Fans help move the air and dry out your home. Do not use central air conditioning or the furnace blower if the ducts were under water. They will blow out dirty air, that might contain contaminants from the sediment left in the duct work. Clean or hose out the ducts first. (See Step 2 : Give Your Home First Aid.)
- Run dehumidifiers. Dehumidifiers and window air conditioners will reduce the moisture, especially in closed up areas.
- Use desiccants. Desiccants (materials that absorb moisture) are very useful in drying closets or other enclosed areas where air cannot move through.
Desiccants like those listed below are usually available at hardware, grocery, or drug stores.
- Chemical dehumidifier packs used for drying boats and damp closets.
- Cat litter made of clay.
- Calcium chloride pellets used for melting ice in the winter. Hang pellets in a pillow case, nylon stocking, or other porous bag. Put a bucket underneath to catch dripping water. Close the closet or area being dried. Be careful. Calcium chloride can burn your skin. It will also make the air salty, so do not use this product near computers or other delicate equipment.
- Call a contractor. There are contractors who specialize in drying out flooded buildings. They have large fans and dehumidifiers that can dry out a house in a few days. Look in the yellow pages under Fire and Water Damage Restoration or under Dehumidifying. Be careful about contractors who inflate prices after a disaster and about out-of-town contractors who inflate prices after a disaster and about out-of-town contractors who request payment in advance.
Drying your home could take several weeks. Until your home is reasonably dry, damage caused by mildew and decay will continue. The musty odor will remain forever if the home is not thoroughly dried out well.
Items Soaked by Floodwater
Should I Throw them Out?
Usually
Mattresses, pillows, foam rubber,large carpets, carpet padding, upholstered couches and chairs,
books, paper products
Always
Food, cosmetics, medical supplies, stuffed animals, baby toys
Questions about the Safety
of Your Food?
Call the USDA Food Safety Hotline: 1-800-535-4555 Professional home economists will answer your questions from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. eastern time, Monday through Friday.You have three types of contents that should go to three different places:
- items you want to save
- items to be discarded
- garbage
Move these to a safe, dry place, such as the second story or outside. The longer they sit in water, the more damaged they become. In some cases, you may only be able to move them to one room while you clean the other rooms. Don’t leave wood furniture in the sun or it will warp when it dries. To save an area rug, lay a sheet or some other material on top so the colors will not bleed. Clean it promptly.
Things you don’t want to save
Put things you don’t want to save outside to dry until the adjuster comes to confirm your losses. Take pictures or videotapes and list each item for the record. If you are not sure whether to throw something out, decide whether it is worth salvaging by checking the information in Step 6 : Clean Up.
Garbage
Get rid of food and anything else that could spoil or go bad immediately. Don’t let garbage build up. Garbage piles will cause yet another health hazard by attracting animals and insects. If your insurance adjuster has not come, tell your agent or adjuster that you need to get rid of potential health hazards. That person will tell you how to make sure that your losses are covered. Then throw the stuff out, preferably in sealed plastic garbage bags.
Don’t take chances with frozen food if electricity went off unless food is still thoroughly frozen and contains ice crystals. As a rule, food will remain frozen for up to three days in a closed freezer without power. Don’t refreeze thawed food. However, you can cook and then freeze raw meat that was partially thawed and then refreeze it.
Dispose of discarded items properly. Do not burn or bury them. There will usually be more frequent garbage pickups after a flood. Your local TV and radio stations will have announcements concerning trash pickup schedules and drop-off sites.
Water and Weed
Wood always has some water in it, but a flood can bring its moisture content up to 30 percent. This causes swelling. However, if allowed to dry naturally, wood will usually go back to its original shape. Unlike wallboard, wet studs and sills that are touched by floodwaters do not need to be thrown out. Hollow wood doors usually have cardboard spacers in the middle that lose their shape when wet. Generally, these doors come apart after they are flooded sand need to be replaced.
Once contents and debris have been cleared, the next step is to get the water out of the ceilings and walls. How you drain and dry your ceilings and walls depends on what they are made of.
Wallboard.Some contaminants will stay in the wood pores after it dries, but not as much as stays in flooded wallboard. Wood studs and sills will be covered by new wallboard and painted, so they are well removed from human contact. Therefore, wet wood studs and sills do not need to be replaced if they are allowed to dry properly.
Most ceilings and walls are covered with wallboard, especially in newer homes. Wallboard will act like a sponge, drawing water up above the flood level. It becomes very fragile if it stays wet for long and will fall apart when bumped. When the wallboard finally dries, there will still be mud and contaminants dried inside.
Wallboard that has been soaked by floodwater presents a permanent health hazard. Therefore, this blog recommends that you throw out flooded wallboard. On the other hand, if the wallboard was soaked by clean rainwater, it can be dried in place with plenty of fresh air moving through the area.
Plaster.
Plaster will survive a flood better than wallboard. It should not have to be replaced but it will take a very long time to dry.
Sometimes the plaster will separate from the wood laths as it dries. Then the wall will have to be removed and replaced.
Insulation.
There are 3 main types of insulation and each reacts differently to floodwaters. Styrofoam survives best; it may only need to be hosed off.
Fiberglass batts should be discarded if they are muddy. If soaked by clean rainwater, remove them so the rest of the wall can dry. They can be put back in the wall, but it will take a very long time to dry.
Cellulose (loose or blown-in treated paper) insulation will hold water for a long time. It can also lose its antifungal and fire retardant abilities. Therefore, flooded cellulose insulation should be replaced.
Wood.
If allowed to dry naturally, wood will generally regain its original shape. Different layers of laminated wood, such as plywood, may dry at different rates, causing the layers to separate.
Drain the Ceilings and Walls
CeilingsDry the ceilings and walls
Check for sagging ceilings. Drain them carefully as shown in Step 2 :
Give Your Home First Aid. If the floodwaters went above your ceiling, you should replace it if it is made of wallboard. A plaster ceiling will dry eventually, but if it has too many cracks or sags, you will have to tear it down and replace it. Remove any wet insulation in the ceiling to allow the joists to dry.
Walls
Remove water trapped within your walls. To check for water, take off the baseboard. Stick an awl or knife into the wall about 2 inches above the floor (just above the 2 X 4 wood sill plate). If water drips out, cut or drill a hole large enough to allow water to drain freely. (Use a hand or cordless drill or saw to avoid shock.) If you are going to replace the wallboard anyway, you don’t have to be neat: use a hammer to knock out a hole.
If your walls are plaster, a knife won’t penetrate them. Drill a hole above the sill plate to drain the water. (Use a hand or cordless drill to avoid shock.) Do not use a hammer or chisel on plaster because the plaster could shatter.
In a newer home, you may have metal sill plates. A metal sill acts as a trough at the bottom of the wall cavity. Drill a hole at floor level to drain the water, using a hand or cordless drill.
Repeat the process to drain all the wall cavities. Depending on the spacing between studs in your walls, make a hole every 16” or every 24”. Watch out for the wiring which is usually at the same height as your electrical outlets. If there is wet insulation, you will have to remove the wallboard in order to take out all the insulation.
Flood soaked wallboard is usually removed and thrown away. Plaster and paneling can often be saved, but you still need to get air circulating in the wall cavities to dry the studs and sills. Different approaches are used for different materials.
Wallboard
If floodwaters soaked the wallboard at least four feet above the floor, you should take down all the wallboard and replace it. If the water level was less than four feet deep, remove the lower four feet of wallboard. You can fill the gap with 4’ x 8’ sheets installed sideways.
If you have Styrofoam insulation— or no insulation—and the wallboard was soaked with clean rainwater, you can dry the walls without removing the wallboard using the technique explained below for plaster walls. But you will need to remove wet insulation if it is not Styrofoam.
Plaster walls
If the plaster or wallboard is clean and in good shape, you can drill or cut ventilating holes in each wall cavity. Place holes low enough so they will be covered by the baseboard after the wall dries out. Open up the wall on both sides of interior walls. For exterior walls, drill or cut holes on the inside of the house. However, if there is wet insulation, you will have to remove the plaster or wallboard in order to take out all the insulation.
Concrete block
The cavities in a concrete block wall will drain on their own. The water will not damage the concrete like it will wood or wallboard.
Wallcovering
Vinyl wallcovering seals the wall and prevents drying. Wallpaper paste is a favorite home for mold and mildew. For these reasons, you should remove all wallcovering that got wet and throw it out. (If vinyl wallcovering is loose on the bottom, you may be bale to save it by pulling it off the wall up to the flood level. Clean and reapply it after everything dries.)
Paneling
Carefully pry the bottom of each panel away from the wall. Use something to hold the bottom away from the sill so the cavities can drain and dry out. You can nail them back into shape after they and the studs dry out. However, if there is wet insulation, you will have to remove the paneling in order to take out all the insulation.
Dry the floor
Air needs to circulate around flooded floors so they can dry out. This means removing the floor covering. Because floodwaters contain mud and dirt, most soaked floor coverings should be thrown away. Keep a piece of all discarded floor covering so the adjuster can tell its value.
Air needs to circulate below the floor to dry it out. If the crawl space of your home is flooded, pump it out. Remove any plastic sheets, vapor barriers or insulation from underneath the floor. (Be sure to replace them when the floor and foundation are completely dry.)
If a home with a basement was flooded over the first floor, remove finished basement ceilings, or cut or drill holes between all the joists to allow circulation. Don’t cut or drill near electric lines or pipes. You have now reached the stage where no more damage should occur to your home. Exterior holes have been patched, the utilities have been turned off, and the drying process has started. It may take days or weeks, depending on the humidity, for all the wood to dry out. You can do Steps 5 : Restore the Utilities, 6 : Clean Up and 7 : Check on Financial Assistance while the home is drying. However, do not start Step 8 : Rebuild and Floodproof, Rebuild and Floodproof, until the home is completely dry.
IKLAN 2



